Build or
Buy 
Canberra Hot Rod Association (CHRA)
A very
good way to get into the hobby of Hot Rodding is to buy a Hot
Rod.
For a start you
exactly know what your getting for your hard earned dollars up front. You
can also start driving your Hot Rod straight away (hopefully) -theres no
waiting for years for the car to be finished. Plus, you can have the
car inspected, either by the registration authorities or the ASRF
Technical Advisory Committee (or in the A.C.T, ACT TAC ). You can ask around, see what the
guy is like who built the car and more importantly who drove the car.
There is still
some stigma attached to buying a Hot Rod. As it will always be referred to
as so and so's car. There are a couple of easy ways that you can overcome
this: a change of wheels is a really good place to start and if
you can re-sell the old wheels won't cost a lot either. Next add some
graphics or maybe even flames, or if your budget extends to it, how about
a fresh coat of paint?
On a side note, It's
interesting to see lately how many Hot Rods are changing States for what
ever reason -Prehaps one of the reasons is that not many people will
recognise the Rod as so and so's car?
Build or Buy?
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This is definitely one of the first questions that you need to ask yourself. For some people the answer is easy, for other it's very difficult.
There is no right or wrong answer and no one answer suits all, that's
for sure!
Here is how I got my Hot Rod and the reasons why:
I've always loved
a Ford 23 T-Bucket. I never really considered myself a Hot Rodder growing
up. I liked some other Hot Rods as well and there were others that I
didn't like.
When I was 17 onwards I liked mostly mussel cars, you
know, Torana's, GT Falcons, HQ's, etc but I always still liked T-Buckets.
When I got married I went to my wedding in a T-Bucket and well that
was it, hook, line and sinker -one day I had to have one...
Starting a
business, raising a young family and having a mortgage didn't leave any
time left and certainly very little money. Suddenly, I was staring down
the barrel of turning 40, hell next year I could have cancer! I was still
working in and on my business, my kids were now 11 and 6 and my wife still
didn't understand why wanted it, let alone liking the idea of
it!
Although she doesn't get it, she did agreed it letting me have one.
Conditions were that it was 1. Registered 2. Finished and 3. Needed
nothing more done to it. Honestly, this was my list as well, as I didn't
have the time nor skills to build one properly -Not to mention a spare
couple of years to do it in!
So, I knew what I wanted, a 23’
T-Bucket. It didn't have to be a certain colour: red, black or another
dark colour would do but it, but it did have to be in good condition,
registered and I had to really like it. There was a check list of 'must
haves' of course, but I was not stuck on a particular look or a particular
style of T-Bucket.
So for me the answer to the question 'Build or Buy'
was easy -Buy.
For others their lifestyle may leave them with
enough time to tinker away in the shed to the wee hours of the
morning or it may not be to take the easy way out and just buy one, but to
live with the satisfaction of building it yourself or you may want
something to look or be done differently. What ever the reason, there are
plenty of reasons to build it yourself and sometimes you just need one of
them and that’s all!
You may want an 'old school' Hot Rod, a Rat
Rod, a show winner or as a daily driver either way, if you have built it
or bought it, you are a Hot Rodder.
How Much does a Hot Rod Cost?
Probably "the" most asked question by those from within the hobby and those who just stand and look in awe at some of the beautiful rods. The quick answer is a good street rod costs about the same to build as a current Commodore or Falcon. Sure there are many more expensive rods and just as many built for a lot less.
There are so many variables, such as the state of the car you start with, how much work you can do your self, what level of build and finish quality do you want, what style of rod you want to build, how much performance do you want. Each one can easily add $5,000 to $15,000 to your project.
Also how much it costs to build a hot rod does generally not relate to how much you can sell it for, without even taking into consideration you own time and running around. If you did all that and added it into the price you'd never build a rod in the first place.
According to some of the bigger rod construction shops it takes about
1,200 to 1,500 hours to build a car. You can do the calculations yourself
but if your local panel shop charges $65 or $95 an hour you can quickly
see it adds up to a very tidy sum
Building on a Budget
You can build a hot rod to a budget, but their will usually have to
be some compromises along the way.
Unfortunately not all of us have a garage full of mint parts collected over the years that we can just pull down a build a rod from. This makes for great magazine stories, but in reality it's just not gunna happen for the newest member to the clan.
Savings
You will need to have saved a reasonable amount of money to get
started, as your first purchase will be one of the most expensive, the the
car itself. Actually if you look at each of the steps, they will probably
end up costing you between $2,000 and $5,000 per step. Depending upon what
you get done and the type of components and accessories you use.
Less is better
A good way that you can build a cheaper car is by selecting a body
style that just plain uses less parts! A little hiboy roadster for
example, is going to take less to build than a full fendered sedan. But
because everything on our little roadster is hanging out it has to be
detailed, but if you do it yourself, it needn't cost much more. Plus for
that first year you don't really need a roof or that trick tuck and roll
upholstered seat. Buy yourself a Mexican rig and through it over those
bare springs and just tell every one how cool it looks.
Do it yourself
Being able to make things rather than buy them can save you a
considerable amount of money and it can be the smallest of things that add
up to a very pretty sum. For instance, making all your own bracket and
braces rather than forking out for those pretty billet ones. You can make
something that looks just the same, just as good with a little time and
effort. Or you can improve on the original and earn your self some bonus
points come judging time.
Wheel'n and Deal'n
Another good way to save money on your project is to swap things. Now this can be as simple as one part for another. But could include buying a wreck, you taking what you want, motor, trans, diff, column, booster, shifter and then selling the rest. This will dramatically reduce the cost of the parts you took off the wreck. Or maybe you can swap some of your time or talent in return for some work on your rod. There wouldn't be many bricklaying, plumbing, carpentering rod builders who haven't used this one and it can apply to most professions.
Makes and Models
Start off with a less popular rod. Maybe a less popular body style
or make. For instance you could build a 40's Dodge sedan with all Mopar
running gear for a lot less then a similar Ford with Chev or Ford power.
Just think about it, the original car will cost less, the wreck you buy
for all your parts will cost less. Then when your ready to move on the sum
will definitely be worth more than all the parts.
All of these things have the same effect they reduce your outlay to get into a Hot Rod. The main aim here being to get your bum into the seat and cruizin.
Shopping List
Alright here's a hypothetical example of how much a hot rod costs.
In this case were going the budget route and building a rod with the least
amount of parts posible. It's a 1929 A Model hiboy roadster.
If you
were to add guards, you could easily add $5000, a sedan or tudor, another
$7500
Of course what this list does not include is any work you get professionally done ie. paint, trim, electrics. This will significantly add to the cost of the project. Plus there's the all trips to the local Pick a Part, Swap Meets and countless other trips and don't forget the local bolt barn, where you can hold $50 worth of bolts in one hand.
I'm sure that there is stuff we've left out, I fact I've just had another look at the list and I can see one classic piece that's missing which would add $750 - $1,500 to our cost. So why not tell us what you think we've left out!
Description Cost Sub Total
Body
1928 Ford Roadster Fiberglass Body
$10,000
Paint $2,300
Windscreen $750
Radiator Surround
$600
Grille $600
Body Sub Total: $
14,250
Chassis
Replacement Chassis Rails
$675
A Model front and rear crossmembers
$750
K member, engine and trans mounts
$4,500
Chassis Sub Total: $
5,925
Interior
Seat(s) $750
Steering Wheel and column $375
Instruments
$750
Shifter $375
Carpet
$150
Door Trims $300
Hoodlining $1,800
Sound Deadening $450
Interior Sub Total:
$ 4,950
Motor
Second Hand 350 Chev Small Block V8
$2,000
4 Barrell Manifold $450
Holley Carb $750
Air Cleaner $150
Valve
Covers $300
Fan and Belts $150
Radiator, hoses and clamps
$750
Motor Sub Total:
$ 4,550
Transmission
Reconditioned Turbo 350
$1,850
2500 Stall Torque Convertor $1,200
Custom Drive shaft
$750
Transmission Sub Total:
$ 3,800
Front End
I Beam Axle
$950
Transverse spring $1,100
4 bars and
parts $1,800
Front End Sub Total:
$ 3,850
Rear End
Second Hand 9" assembly
$750
rebuilt centre $750
new
universals $125
4 bars $600
Coil-over shocks
$1,200
Rear End Sub Total:
$ 3,425
Exhaust
Headers or Extractors
$900
Muffers $900
Pipes and
Hangers $900
Exhaust Sub Total:
$ 2,700
Brakes
Front rotors and calipers and
brackets $1,200
Rear shoes, cylinders, drums
machined $450
Master Cylinder and booster
$325
Brake lines, fittings and clamps $300
Brake hoses
$225
Hand Brake lever and cables $300
Brakes
Sub Total:
$ 2,800
Electrical
Alternator
$300
Hi Torque Starter $350
Head Lights $450
Tail Lights $600
Indicators
$300
Horn $125
Wipers $150
Wiring loom $600
Stereo and
speakers $750
Electrical Sub Total:
$ 3,625
Wheels and Tyres
2 x 14 x 6 Mags
$900
2 x 15 x 8 Mags $1,200
2
x 14 x 6 Tyres $375
2 x 15 x 8 Tyres $525
Wheels & Tyres Sub Total:
$ 3,000
Other $200
Fuel Tank, filler tube and cap
$225
Total $53,300
So, no matter which way you
decide, you should do some (or most) of the things listed below -I know I
did:
Step 1: Research
Internet
There are hundreds of great sites on the net to get information on Hot
Rods. Surfing the web is a great way to get not only information, but
contacts. Forum sites are also fantastic as you can ask questions and
search through topics that have already been discussed quickly and
easily.
Read
Read as many magazines and books as you can. Get to know all there is
to know about your particular make or model, how they were constructed ,
how they performed, what were their weaknesses and prehaps their
history.
Hot Rod Shows
Go to as many Hot Rod shows (runs as we call them) as you can and look
at all the Rods there. A picture in a magazine or internet is good, but
seeing (and hearing) a Hot Rod for real is something else. Take photos of
the ones you like and take photos of the bits that makes it 'stand out'
for you. It's also a great place to meet the Rodders themselves.
Hot Rod Suppliers
Hot Rod suppliers are also great to see -check out what and how they're
doing it. Anything from selling chassis’s to body kits to motors to
aftermarket parts to make it go faster -These guys live and breath
modifying cars.
Talk
If you find yourself close enough to the owner of a Hot Rod similar to
one you are building go up and introduce yourself, tell him what you are
doing, chances are he's just dying to tell someone what he's done. One
thing is true about Rodeers is that they love talking about cars,
especially their own!
Photos
Take photos of the Rods you like, analyse what you like about them. Is
it the body or the grill, the motor, the stance or the colour. There are
many unique features that make up a Hot Rod and it’s almost guaranteed
that no two Rods are the same, anywhere.
Scrap Book
Start you own scrap book with all the details about your dream Hot Rod.
It will make it a lot easier to explain to someone else who will be
working on the car if they can see what your all about. A simple picture
may have saved 100 man hours if something goes wrong or has to be re-done
–Not so funny when you are paying for it.
Save
If there is one thing you can know for sure is that it's going to cost
more to build than what you first thought. Building a Hot Rod can be done
cheaply, but it can also cost well over $100K for a show winner and then
there is most Rodders who sit somewhere in the middle.
A lot has to do
with how much you can do yourself, if your are lucky enough to find
some bargains, if you have mates that can help (for a few beers say),
your in the trade to start with, how many mistakes you make and wether
your tastes are always top shelf! Do I buy a new crate V8 from the States
or buy a cheap old V8 on ebay and ‘fix her up’?
See also Build to a
Budget - Savings
Step 2: Start your Build or Buy
There's a couple of different stages which the car you buy could be in
and depending upon the stage it is at generallt determains the
amount of work that you will have ahead.
Finished Rod 
Pay the money, turn the key and drive away!
Well, that's the idea
anyway. For some Rodders this is true and for others it's not. One of the
major problems today is the different laws in each State. This can make
buying a Rod interstate a gamble, as what's acceptable in one State may
not be in another. Just because it has W.A rego, doesn't mean it will be
able to have A.C.T rego. I know this only too well. I bought a Rod in W.A
which was on full W.A rego -it had been for close to 30 years. Why W.A you
ask, well W.A wrote the new National Street Rod Guidelines (NSRG) and
A.C.T rego adopted them, so one would think that this should have been a
simple transfer (I know I did). The only thing that I was told was that
A.C.T also required an Engineers Report, so with pictures in toe, of I
went to the Engineer. From the pictures he couldn't find anything major,
so I had the green light to purchase the car. Buy the time this all
happened, the Rod just ran out of W.A rego, so I said I would purchase it
providing it was passed for another year (in W.A each year they have it
inspected).
All good. The Rod had been passed again in W.A so it was
shipped of to the A.C.T.
It took a little over 2 weeks to arrive, as it
was held up due to rain in Melbourne (being an open car). So with just
under 2 weeks left on the W.A pass, off I went to the Engineer. Here
things really went pair shaped. The Engineer had just went off on a hip
replacement, bugger 6 weeks delay. Never mined I thought, he's seen the
pictures of the car and it was passed in W.A (even though it would have
expired upon his return to work). Everything should be still
O.K.
Wrong. 1st rule of buying another Rod: Keep it registered!
As
soon as the rego expires, the Engineer has to check it as if it has just
been built. No dispensation for the fact that it was registered for such a
long period prior. Of course some of the rules had changed between when it
was built and now and this spells trouble and heart ache for a
Rodder.
Moral of the story is there are no guarantees! Even if I got
W.A TAC to inspect the car before I bought it, this does not guarantee
that it can be registered in the A.C.T. Also, even if it was registered in
another State, that doesn't mean the Engineer will pass it our A.C.T rego
will accept it.
Original Car 
For Rodders who want steel bodies. You many be lucky enough to pick
your next project right out of the paddock or shed from where it has spent
some considerable time just waiting for you to come along. Probably the
biggest sport amongst hot roddders is spotting vintage tin. With many
wasted weekends following leads from some guy in a pub or service station
who knows some guy, who knows some guy that has this old car. Or just
cruising the back roads looking for old car grave yards. These are the
cars that usually require the most work (read: time and money!) but are
usually fairly cheap to get into. These are also the cars you see dragged
along to the swap meets, although in smaller numbers these days. Also in
this category are all the imports from the States, usually California and
Texas where the climate is a lot drier and the bodies are still in
reasonable condition. They may still require replacement or patch panels,
repairs and modifications. Factor all of this into the total cost and that
other body for an extra grand all of a sudden becomes more
attractive.
Look for cars with all the pieces and parts there, such as
door handles, bumpers and brackets, window trims. This will save you a
small fortune in time and effort later on.
Reproduction Body
You may have the luxury of ordering the body style you want all
steeled out and ready for paint. All the body modifications done, hidden
hinges, burstproof locks, etc. But this convenience comes at a price. Most
new bodies now are fiberglass, due to cost.
Unfinished Project 
This can be a very good way to buy a Hot Rod, with some other guy
having done all the hard work or spent all his money and then loosing
interest in finishing the car. These cars require just a close inspection.
as you have to be happy with what ever has been done so far, other wise
there is even more work for you.
Either way, contact the ACT Technical Advisory Committee (A.C.T TAC ) as there are many rules and regulations regarding registration in the ACT. It is very much a case of 'Buyer Beware' and the more information from the right people (the people in the know) will lessen the risk of problems down the line. Don't be fooled -There are differences in registrations between the different States of Australia and this is where may new Rodders come unstuck.
Step 3: Patience
People buy and build Hot Rods at all stages of life. Some stages make it a lot easier than others to progress that pile of parts and panels under the tarp at the back of the carport than others. There are many life events that are only too willing to rob you of valuable construction time or dollars.
Like sports, travel, engagements, marriage, houses, kids. No matter what stage your at you need to take these things into consideration. It is a healthy balance between all your activities that will win the day.
So if you can have a look into the future, what can you do now and what
can be put off till later. A classic example is a guy who has a steel body
in need of some TLC, he knows he has 2 years to finish his body work.
Rather than put it into a shop and probably be charged top dollar our
friend enrolls in a Panel Beating Course at the local TAFE, taking along
his panels as class projects. Instead of a bill for a $1000, it's only
cost him $250 in fees and he's got a freshly repaired set of
guards
Good luck with your project,
Rod Tyson